Ralph Hill, a member of the Revel Facebook group, has repositioned the the exhaust from the diesel (Espar) heater. He wrote up all the details, and I'm posting it here with his kind permission.
The exhaust from the Espar ends in front of one of the brackets supporting the running board on the driver’s side. It is very vulnerable there. It looks like a stiff bush could do serious damage to it. I have repositioned mine based on a picture I saw of a modification done by Agile Off-Road.
The final result is shown in these pictures.
The beauty of this modification is that no holes need to be drilled and no new hardware is needed. It leaves the Espar exhaust well protected. There is a possible downside. I think there may be some rule that the exhaust from the heater cannot be immediately below an operable window. This modification places the exhaust outlet below the dinette window. The original position is very slightly ahead of the dinette window. I think this makes no difference, but the rules might not see it that way.
To move the exhaust you have to drill out the rivet holding the clamp to the bracket for the running board. I drilled from the rear. Then twist off the cap on the end of the flexible exhaust pipe and slide the clamp off. At this point, part of the rivet is likely to be stuck in the clamp. I pried the clamp open a bit, cut the rivet with a hack saw, and pushed out the remains of the rivet. There might be better ways to get the rivet out. Perhaps drilling from the front might work better.
Next, you have to remove the rear bolt holding the bracket for the running board to the bottom seam of the body. I needed a 3/8" socket on the bolt and an 11mm 12 pt box wrench on the nut. (“Huh?” you say. Well that is what I had that fit). Run the bolt through the clamp (it will fit if you press while turning). Slide the clamp back on the flexible pipe. Straighten the pipe and adjust the position of the clamp so the bolt lines up with its hole. I tried to position the clamp so that it was tilted very slightly with the bottom further forward than the top. I did this to try to help keep the flexible pipe from rattling against the bracket for the running board. When you have things in position, tighten the nut on the bolt. Turn the nut, not the bolt. If you turn the bolt you will probably twist the clamp. I did that on the first try. Adjust the pipe trying to keep it straight and away from things it might rattle against. Aim the end of the flexible pipe down and out a bit. Thread the end cap back on the pipe.
I finished by spraying all the bolts and the hole for the rivet in the bracket for the running board with a waxy corrosion inhibitor. That is the shiny yellow you see on and around the bolts.
