Showing posts with label roof. Show all posts
Showing posts with label roof. Show all posts

Replacing a Roof Vent

It was time to replace our original MaxxFan, and the new brushless AirPlus fan looked like a good replacement. One of its selling points is that uses the exact same housing & footprint as the original MaxxFan, so it's just a simple drop-in. I found that to almost be the case. Here's what I did.

I removed the four screws in the bezel of the MaxxFan.


I pulled the excess wire out of the ceiling and checked the polarity. Note that the ceiling material is comprised of fiberglass, and the fibers are very loose and will drive your skin crazy for a few days - - use gloves when dealing with the ceiling panel back here.


On the roof, I removed four screws on the side of the fan that attach the fan assembly to the body of the van.


At this point I was able to lift the fan out of its housing. This white housing is identical between the MaxxFan and the AirPlus, allowing the new fan to be a drop-in. I just reused the housing, so no adhesive or cutting was required.


The lid of the AirPlus extends about .5" further forward than the MaxxFan, so for vans with tight tolerances, this can be a problem. In my case, it was impeded by a slat on my roof rack, so I had to cut the slat out of the way. Bummer.


I replaced the 4 screws in identical locations, attaching the AirPlus to the van again.


I used butt connectors for the power leads. In my 2018 Revel, yellow is positive, and I attached it to the fan's red wire.


I connected the three other harnesses from the interior touch panel to the fan itself. They are all different sizes, so it's not possible to do this wrong.


The last step is to attach the internal touch panel to the ceiling of the van with four screws. Fortunately, Winnebago had a solid wood frame in place for the MaxxFan, so I just reused that. I found that overtightening the screws caused the fan to have difficulties lifting the lid, so I backed the torque off, and it worked fine.


This fan has LEDs that are not overly bright.


It also has a built-in shade, which is nice, but note that you can no longer remove the screen (and blade) for cleaning. This is definitely suboptimal, in my opinion.


Eight years with the old fan has caused indentations and screw holes from the MaxxFan, and they are now exposed with the AirPlus. It would be nice if there were a trim plate or flange available for this.


All in all, it has some nice features and feels like a step forward from a design that is probably 30-40 years old (MaxxFan). However, it won't be easy to clean, and seems to be even more reliant on the remote control than the MaxxFan was.



April 25, 2026

Wind Speed Gauge (Anemometer)

We frequently camp in places where winds and storms come up quickly, and are always curious to know the wind speeds during those events. After looking around for a simple solution, I found the La Crosse 327-1414BW Wind Speed Station that works pretty well for us. 


The wind sensor (anemometer) is not suitable for traveling on the roof of the van, so I permanently mounted its mast on the roof, and then mount the sensor on the mast when I want to use it. The mast is a black steel broom handle, cut to size, and then mounted in a black aluminum flag pole holder. I fold the mast down when traveling, then erect it when we're in camp.




The sensor/anemometer is battery-operated, so I put the batteries in it when I want to use it, and take them out when I don't. (I've looked into adding a switch, but found that it's probably more trouble than simply taking the batteries in and out.) I added a small thumbscrew for quick & easy attachment.




The wind station itself is also battery-operated, without an on/off switch, so in order to save battery life when I'm not using it, I built a no-solder battery interrupter and attached it to a simple external switch



We decided that it should reside near the rest of the instrument cluster in the dinette area, so I mounted it to a folding under cabinet TV mount, and attached that to the bottom of the dinette cabinet. It's about the perfect size, and folds away when we're not using it.






It's admittedly kind of unusual looking, but it works well!






11-Feb-2022

Replacing the Awning

We've wanted to replace our original Winnebago-installed Carefree awning for years. We didn't like it sitting up on top of the rack where it took up usable space, it was the wrong color, and it didn't have any legs for staking down the awning when winds come up. 




After we replaced the roof rack with a Front Runner Slimline II deck from Canyon Adventure Vans, we finally had a viable platform for attaching a new awning. After doing a lot of research, we settled on a wall-mounted (as opposed to a roof-mounted) awning from Fiamma: the F45S 300 (300 centimeters, about 10'1"). In spite of pandemic scarcity, Panther RV Products in Washougal, Washington had about 10 in stock that shipped the next day, as opposed to drop-shipping from Fiamma after waiting 8 weeks. As it turns out, I ordered on a Monday, and had it in my hands on Friday. Panther creates a wood-reinforced crate that surrounds Fiamma's cardboard box, and it's a wise move - - Fedex brought ours with a seriously damaged crate, but it protected the awning inside very well.



Removal of the awning was very fast & simple from the Front Runner rack. Disconnect the power (and remove the fuse), detach the awning from the bracket, and detach the bracket from the roof. This took about 20 minutes.





The most difficult part of this project was determining exactly how the new awning would attach to the rack. I wanted a simple & elegant solution that would not put holes in the van or in the rack. As it turns out, Front Runner makes a zillion kinds of accessories for their racks, but they don't make one for Fiamma wall-mounts.

I installed the awning using two different methods, and the second method seems to be the best one. So I'm explaining what I did here, but also including the first method, which I abandoned, so that readers can learn from my experiments.

Second Method (The Better One)

I became concerned about the effects of gravity and rotational torque on the side rails of the rack, so I looked for a way to decrease the torque and attach the awning more securely. Rather than having the awning attached to the rack using extensions, as they were in my first method (see below), I decided to attach Fiamma's aluminum brackets directly to the rack, as shown in these pictures.


 
This method would minimize the rotation torque on the rack, but after conferring with Front Runner's technical support, I looked for a way to tie that torque into the T-slots in the slats of the deck itself. I spent some time in a hardware store, looking for materials that I could adapt for this use, and came upon these corner braces.




I have a friend who is a master at metalworking and welding, and he spent about 90 minutes working five of these braces into perfect anti-torque brackets. They are shown here with paint & clear coat, but I may get them powder coated at some point.



I painstakingly drilled six holes into the rack at uniform height & distance, then attached the Fiamma aluminum brackets to the rack.


Then I added the anti-torque brackets at crucial points on the rack, and can report that the awning & rack seem very solid, without flex or roll.





I prefer the look and function of the awning in this new location - - it's lower and tighter against the van, tucked into the gap between the rack and the van, and it's a bit lower for reaching from the ground.




First Method (Abandoned)

After extensive searching, I found these Fiamma F45S-specific brackets from Unaka Gear Co. They're made to match the Fiamma mounting plate, and are fabricated from 1/4" welded steel.



I simply bolted the pieces together, made my measurements, and then bolted the assemblies to the mounting channel on the top of the rack using stainless M8 20 bolts (recommended by Front Runner).


It's important for the Fiamma to have all three mount points aligned as well as possible, so I used string as my guide. I aligned the two end brackets, then brought the center bracket into alignment with the string.



I got a friend to help me lift the awkward 50 pounds into place, using two stepladders, and it dropped into the mounting channel instantly and without issue. Very, very easy. I tightened everything down, and added the small alignment screws to the underside as Fiamma explains in their instruction manual. Total installation time was about 4 hours, but it could be done much faster - - I did almost all of it by myself, and fussed over each detail, which slowed me down quite a bit.




________________________________________________
Time to step back, survey the work, and check functionality.






There's quite a bit more space on the right side of the deck now. We may add a long, narrow solar panel to the rear passenger area of the deck, and then remove the big one over the driver's area, thus freeing up that spot for a chair or blanket.

We're storing the crank arm in the small vertical space next to the bathroom door.



30-January-2022